Roof Rat Housing & Setup: Cage, Beds, Litter & Water

By Brian · 21 min read · Last saved September 15, 2026

Roof Rat Care › Roof Rat Housing & Setup

Just want quick answers? See the housing & cage FAQ.

Everything for setting up your roof rat’s home: the cage itself, where they sleep, what to line it with, how they drink, and the little extras that make life better. Get this right once and daily care gets easy.

On this page:

• Choosing the right cage
• Sleeping places for your Roof Rats
• What are the best litters?
• Water dish or bottle?
• Optional extras
• Issues with housing, toys or food

Choosing the right cage

When choosing a cage for your pet Roof Rat, you need to consider the following:

1. Roof Rats love to chew, and they will chew on almost anything they can reach with their teeth.  Avoid cages made with plastic or wood.  They don’t chew on the floor, so a plastic litter pan is OK if you have a drop in cage so they cannot reach the sides of the litter pan.
2. They will also chew on plastic parts of water bottles: more on this later.
3. Roof Rats sometimes run frantically and kick their litter around.  A nice, deep litter pan means less sweeping.  Good choice of litter also helps: more on this later.
4. Roof Rats (especially young ones) may squeeze through any gap bigger than 1/2 inch.  Check carefully, as some poorly made cages (like Ware) have gaps between panels, or where the litter pan latches to the cage.
5. Roof Rats are arboreal, so they are slender, athletic and their legs and paws are large, tough and muscular.  They don’t really need ramps to climb around in a wire cage, and don’t seem to be prone to bumblefoot in my experience.  If you do want to use ramp or floor coverings anyway, be prepared to replace them very frequently (see item #1 above.)
6. Roof Rats’ urine is smelly for us, and bad for them.  Make sure your cage is well ventilated and there is no-place for urine to collect which won’t be absorbed by litter.  Avoid very large, solid shelves.  Any solid shelves should ideally be powder-coated metal, to prevent urine stains and odor.  Avoid plastic shelves.  Never use fish tanks for Roof Rats.
7. Unless you really trust your Roof Rats, avoid cages where the entire side is a door, because they may try to sneak around your hands when you put them back.  If the door opening is smaller than the side of the cage, then you can use the lip of the door opening to block the rat from immediately darting back out after you put him back.
8. Cages with drop-in bottoms make it easy to change their litter without disturbing your rats.  During the day, your rats will usually be sleeping in their hammocks.  So, you simply unlatch the litter pan and lift out the cage, rats and all, and set it down on the ground.  Clean the litter pan and add fresh litter, then replace the cage!

9. Until you have bonded with your rats, you will need to be careful when you take them out.  It is better to start them off in a smaller cage that you can carry into a safe place for socializing them (also see the section on socializing them.)  For babies, the small KW Rodent cage (see below) or a cheap mouse or hamster cage works fine until they outgrow it, and it will also be useful for transporting them home after adopting them.

We recommend KW Cages and Pointer Hill Cages.  For transporting babies home and initially socializing them, we recommend KW Cages’ small rodent cage:

Rodent Cage 10 x 14 x 12 Galvanized

For one adult rat, the “Deluxe” rat cage is OK if you take it out a lot.  We use this type cage for female rats that are pregnant or nursing a litter, as it is the right size and shape for a large wooden house and keeps the babies safely with the mom.

Deluxe Rodent Cage 12 x 24 x 12

While for 2-4 adult rats, we use a customized Pointer Hill model BR804. Important: If you want to order this cage directly from Pointer Hill, tell them to put the door in front and use 2 door latches, or your rats will eventually escape!

A good starter setup is an already assembled cage (the Pointer Hill cage requires significant assembly), two hammocks, a water dish, litter and food. We use the same setup for our own rats.

We use exactly the same setup and food for our own rats, so we can confidently say that it will work for yours, too.

If you can pick up a used Martin’s Cage, like R-670 or R-680 (powder-coated not essential, don’t get the flip top!), that will also work. Unfortunately, they are out of business, so you won’t be able to find them new, anymore.

Martin’s Cage R-670

Not recommended:

Any cage with a “tub” plastic bottom, or plastic levels.  Roof Rats will chew these, and escape.  Also, this kind of door latch is not very good.

Rat cage with plastic tub and shelves

Critter Nation’s cage comes with a shallow, plastic litter pan. And the door opening is entire side of cage.  If you replace the litter pan with a 3 inch stainless steel one from Bass equipment, this cage is OK for tame, adult Roof Rats.  Unfortunately, this combination will cost over $200 with shipping.

Cage with plastic, shallow tray and too wide doors

Cage which has gaps between the panels or where the tray latches to the cage.  Young Roof Rats can push the latch out then squeeze through (this case also has a gap in the wires behind the latch, not visible in the photo.)  Also, the metal selves do not attach securely to the cage, and Roof Rats will make a mess of them almost every day.  And they will chew the PVC coating off all of the wires.

Rat cage with gap where the tray latches to the top

Sleeping places for your Roof Rats

Just like you, Roof Rats need their sleep to stay healthy and happy.  They are semi-nocturnal, and will spend most of the day sleeping with their friends.  However, they are adaptable, light sleepers, and will often come out and play (or ask for treats) when they sense that you are around.

A Roof Rat’s ideal sleeping place should be:

1. Safe. Animals are vulnerable while they are sleeping, so they don’t like feeling totally exposed.  Hammocks are enclosed on at least 2 sides, and up high where Roof Rats feel safest.  Houses are on the ground, so they will often use litter to block the entrance.
2. Cozy.  Soft enough to conform to their bodies, but supportive so they can stretch out and relax. Like your bed, but smaller and rat shaped.  Hammocks are the right size and shape, supported on 4 corners so they stay flat enough to provide support, and lined with soft flannel.  If they sleep in a house, you will need to provide them with soft nesting material so they can make it comfy themselves.

Rat cozy in her little bed 3. Warm and comforting.  It’s hard to sleep without a blanket, right?  Roof Rats also want to feel snuggly and warm in their beds.  Their hammock needs to be the right size so that they feel somewhat cocooned while they are sleeping inside.  Having other rats around is even better (see next point.)  Again, if they sleep in a house, they will use litter to make themselves feel snuggly. 4. Social.  Roof Rats are social animals.  If you have 2 hammocks and 2 Roof Rats in the same cage, they will both sleep in the same hammock unless they hate each other.  It is amazing how many Roof Rats can squeeze themselves into one hammock!  To us, it looks terribly uncomfortable, but they make each other safe, cozy and warm, plus they feel love and companionship.  Sometimes, I feel jealous, actually.

Rats love snuggling together 5. Clean.  If you use hammocks, try to wash them twice a month.  Our hammocks have removable metal parts so they are machine washable.  If you use a house, you will need to change the litter they collect inside when it becomes soiled.  The house will also become dirty after a while, and you will need to wash or replace it.  It is harder to keep houses clean, which is one reason why we use hammocks (except for expectant or nursing moms which should be given houses.) 6. Durable.  Rats love to chew.  You’d think they would have better sense than to ruin their own bed, but no: they will also chew on their hammocks and houses.  Fortunately, they mostly chew on the hanging parts of hammocks, so we make those out of stainless steel.  They will also chew holes in wooden houses, but they seem to like having multiple entrances and exits anyway.

Wooden Rat house with a customized window 7. Accessible. Roof Rats mostly sleep during the day, which means you will know where to find your pets when you want to play with them.  When it comes to looking at, petting and taking them out, hammocks with front facing openings are the most accessible.  If your Roof Rat is in a house with the opening barricaded with litter, you will rarely see her, let alone play with her–which is what you want anyway if she is nursing babies. 8. Multipurpose.  Rats don’t just use their hammocks and houses for sleeping: they are actually part of their living space.  They use them for sitting, eating and even exercising.  We design our Roof Rat hammocks to be played on, like this little monkey!

For most people, we recommend using hammocks instead of houses.  Two sizes work well for Roof Rats.

A standard, medium hammock is just the right size for 1-3 adult Roof Rats.  Look for one with a front opening for easy access, removable stainless steel cables and clips for durability, and that is machine washable.  A soft, snuggly, warm one is what they like best.  We’ve had years of experience with hammocks for our own rats, so we know how much they appreciate a good one.

Medium sized hammocks are a good fit for Roof Rats

A baby snuggle hammock is great for socializing young Roof Rats.  Look for one with two clips, near the front and rear entrances, so it is easier to take it in and out of the cage with the baby Roof Rats still snuggling inside.  You can then touch and bond with your Roof rats while they feel safe in their own hammocks.  The sturdiest ones use stainless-steel braided cable and metal C-clips rather than cloth straps, so they stand up to gnawing far longer. You can use any hammock made for rats or ferrets, just inspect the straps often and replace them once they are chewed; this fleece-and-linen one is a nice option.

A baby snuggle hammock

What are the best litters?

Roof Rats prefer to be off the ground, and will spend most of their time hanging out in their hammocks.  Unlike other small pets, they don’t need to dig burrows or nest in their litter.  They will occasionally run around on the “ground” for fun, or perhaps to forage for treats or food if you scatter some there. If you scatter some soft litter or shredded paper, they can collect it to decorate their hammocks (but you will need to remove it from their hammocks occasionally when it gets too soiled.)

Mostly, the litter is there to deal with waste produced by the Roof Rats.  It absorbs urine and odors.  Roof Rats will mostly not soil their hammocks with urine: they will probably have a favorite corner for that purpose.  They are less careful where they defecate, but their droppings are dry and mostly odorless, and they eventually end up in the litter anyway.  Roof Rat urine can smell if it accumulates out in the open, but good, absorbent litter, will keep the smell under control if it is changed as needed.

We’ve found that cat litter made from non-toxic materials, such as compressed paper, corn cobs, wheat straw or even walnut shells, work great for Roof Rat cages.  Avoid clumping litter, scented litter and litter made of clay or crystals.  Cat litter has a lot of advantages:

1. It is designed to absorb urine and control odors.
2. It’s inexpensive readily available, and you can have it delivered in bulk.
3. It comes in big, dense pieces which Roof Rats are less likely to kick out of their cages.  Many litters which are intended for small animals come in smaller, lighter weight pieces, which you will be cleaning off your floor every morning.
4. Many brands visibly break down or change appearance when they are soiled, so you know when to change them.
5. They (mostly) don’t stick to the litter pan, so it’s quick and easy to change them.
6. The non-toxic kind is made from plant products, and is biodegradable and compost safe.  Most are flushable (check the label.)

We recommend that you avoid any litter which is made from wood shavings for 2 reasons:

1. Many softwoods, such as pine. are toxic for Roof Rats unless they were properly kilned.  Therefore, litters made from softwood may be unsafe.
2. Wood shavings are terrible at absorbing urine and controlling odors.  Neither you, nor your Roof Rats, will be happy about that.

Here are our recommended litters for Roof Rats, which you can also mix and match as needed:

Purina Yesterday’s News Non Clumping Paper Cat Litter, Unscented.  This is one of our favorites.  Smells good, works great, Roof Rats cannot easily kick it out of their cage, relatively inexpensive and you can buy it in bulk online.  When it is soiled, it breaks down small pieces, so you know when to change it.  You can’t go wrong with this one.

Yesterday’s news cat litter

Fresh News Cat Litter.  Kind of a Yesterdays News knock-off.  It does the job equally well, but it is a little bit lighter weight, so perhaps a bit easier to pour and a full litter tray won’t be quite as heavy.  But Roof Rats may kick some pieces out, occasionally.  It fluffs up rather than breaking down when soiled like Yesterday’s News.  We often mix both types, to make it easier to change the litter.

Fresh News Cat Litter

If you can get it, Teklad Pelleted Paper Litter is great.  Unfortunately, we don’t have a local supplier anymore for that litter.

Aside from these litters, you are free to experiment with others.  Compressed paper litter is probably the most practical for Roof Rats, but any non-toxic litter which is made from plant products will be fine.  Keeping in mind the cost and the size and weight of the pieces.  Finally, if you scatter some softer litter, shredded paper or similar materials on top, your Roof Rats can use it decorate their hammocks.

Water dish or bottle?

Roof Rats need to have drinking water available at all times.  They evolved to live in a semi-tropical climate, with frequent rainfall, especially during the hot, summer months.  So, while they can tolerate warm weather, dehydration may occur within a day if their water dish or bottle is empty or the water bottle is blocked.  Or if illness prevents them from drinking enough.  If your Roof Rat’s eyes look sunken or sleepy, that is a sign of dehydration and it may need medical help.

For providing water, keep in mind the following considerations:

1. It should be easy to check the water level, and add water as needed.  Make sure the inside of their dish is visible at eye level.
2. Their water needs to be clean, so the container needs to be cleaned regularly.  If a water dish has debris in it, empty and clean it.  Use a small brush to clean the inside of water bottles and nozzles.
3. Water bottles can get blocked.  If that happens, your Roof Rats cannot get water even if the bottle looks full.  Always check that water can come out whenever you refill the bottle, and refill the bottle on a regular schedule even if it still has water.
4. Some water bottles, such as Choco nose (which we otherwise like), have plastic mounting hardware inside of the cages.  Some Roof Rats (and even Norway rats) will chew this to bits.

Chewed Choco nose plastic mounting hardware

Once Roof Rats start to do that, they won’t stop, so they will need either a dish or chew-proof glass water bottle.

Note: as a rule of thumb, Roof Rats are more likely to chew on things which are vertically orientated than horizontally oriented.  So, they will chew on Choconose mounting hardware, but not water dishes. 5. All water bottles have a valve of some kind to prevent water from leaking out unless an animal is trying to drink from it.  Usually, there is a little ball that sits at the bottom blocking water flow, until it is pushed up by the animal’s mouth or tongue.  Unfortunately, many Roof Rats discover that they can push that little ball up whenever they feel like playing in water.  And they really love playing in water.  Once your Roof Rats learn how to do this, they will never stop, and their litter will be soaking wet every morning.  They will need a water dish instead of a bottle.

6. If you use a water dish, make sure it attaches securely to the cage, or your Roof Rats will flip it upside down every night.  If the water dishes dish sits inside a wire loop attached to the cage, they will get underneath the dish and flip it upside down.  Every night.

Roof Rats will flip this dish upside down 7. Tip: Quickly and easily refill your rats’ water dish through the bars of their cage using an indoor watering can!

Recommended water dish.

Living World Lock and Crock Dish is our current favorite water dish.  It is the right size, Roof Rats cannot flip it over (so far), and don’t seem to chew on it (so far.)

Living World Lock and Crock Dish

You can use a little watering can to easily refill them.

Alternative Water Bottles

Water bottles are very convenient.  They are easy to refill, keep clean and won’t make a mess in their cage if they don’t leak and your Roof Rats use them properly.  Unfortunately, many Roof Rats won’t use them properly.

Choconose is a great water bottle for Norway Rats.  It is less great for Roof Rats, because they can chew on the mounting parts, and push the little metal ball to play with the water.  We sometimes still use them for a few well behaved Roof Rats, but mostly we don’t bother.

Choconose water bottle

Lixit Glass Water Bottles are perhaps somewhat better, in that they are chew proof.  However, Roof Rats can still push the little ball to empty the water out of them.  And they are somewhat less convenient to refill, so we rarely use them for Roof Rats.

Lixit Glass Water Bottles

Optional extras

What kind of fun toys and decorations would Roof Rats like in their cage?  Here’s where you can get creative!

As a rule of thumb, anything that isn’t sharp, poisonous or otherwise dangerous is fine.  Roof Rats are active, like climbing and jumping, and also love chewing on things.  So, with that in mind, here are some suggestions:

1. Rope ladders, either hanging from the top of the cage or stretched across it.

Rope Ladder 2. Shelves or perches  made from ceramic, pumice or non-toxic wood (generally, if it is sold to be used in a rat cage, then it is safe.)  For example:

Wooden perch 3. Swings or other hanging toys, but check for sharp edges. 4. Seasonal stuff, like ceramic skulls or pumpkins for Halloween, so your Roof Rats can share in the fun!  Avoid anything made of plastic.

Ceramic skull

As long as it’s Roof Rat safe, anything goes!

Issues with housing, toys or food

Roof Rats can generally use the same cages, toys and food as Norway Rats.  Unfortunately, some of what is marketed for Rats can be of low quality or poorly designed.  This is more of an issue for Roof Rats than Norway Rats, as Roof Rats are more active and “naughty” than Norway Rats, so they tend to expose and exacerbate any issues.

For example, many “rat cages” marketed to pet owners have plastic tub bottoms that rats can potentially chew on.  Norway rats may never figure this out, but nearly all Roof Rats eventually will.

Plastic tub bottom

Looks for cages with solid metal bottoms, or drop in trays, instead.

Drop-in litter pan

Likewise, some cages have shelves or ramps made from plastic or other chewable materials.  These won’t last very long.  Look for shelves made from wire or solid metal.

Cage with wooden shelf

Many rat cages have door latches which are held shut by friction or just don’t work very well.  Roof Rats will possibly figure out how to open these, and they will be awkward to operate when getting Roof Rats in and out of their cage.

Poorly designed door latch

This door latches more securely:

Secure door latch

Some cages have shelves and ramps which are not securely attached to the cages.  Roof Rats are very active, and will dislodge these nearly every night.  Very annoying.

Cage with shelves and ramp not securely attached

Securely attached shelf

Some cages have shallow litter pans.  Roof Rats, being very active, will quickly kick the litter out (and chew on the plastic pan as well.)

Cage with shallow litter pan

Roof Rats are active, and if you give them a wheel, they will run on it.  Even adult male Roof Rats.  However, they also have very long tails, which can rub on their wheel while they are running, causing injury.  For this reason, we don’t give them wheels.

Tail injury caused by running on wheel

As with Norway Rats, it is important to keep Roof Rats’ litter clean to avoid ammonia build up.  Litter made of wood shavings isn’t very absorbent, and unkilned soft wood shavings can be toxic to rats.  We advise using paper litter.

Rats will chew on anything anything chewable.  Roof Rats, especially.  Many “Rat Hammocks” are made with chewable parts.  Avoid these, as they won’t last long.

chewable rat hammock

Use hammocks with metal parts, instead:

Hammock with metal parts

Plastic pods will also be chewed, although they may last a bit longer:

Plastic hanging pods

Even water bottle mounts will be chewed, eventually:

Chewed water bottle mounts

For some reason, Roof Rats don’t chew on plastic water dishes.  Go figure.

Living World Lock and Crock Dish

Roof Rats can eat “rat food”, but if you give them food with a mix of seeds and stuff in it, they will just pick out their favorite bits and ignore the rest.  This will result in an unbalanced diet.

Roof Rats will pick out their favorite bits

Better to give them lab blocks or pellets, and hand feed nutritious treats, like blueberries, green peas, or pumpkin seeds.  This also gives you a bonding opportunity with them. Look for food with about 18% protein.

Lab blocks